Day 8: Fiesta in Castro Urdiales

We woke at 6:30 AM. The early start, coupled with a steaming cup of coffee at our cozy B&B, invigorated us for the day ahead. By 7:00 AM, we were out the door, heading towards the metro station. With a few guiding questions directed at workers there, we found our way to the right platform. The subway whisked us away to Santurtzi, where we could catch a bus to our starting point.

Upon arrival in Santurtzi, we roamed the quaint town for a brief 20 minutes, soaking in the morning silence. We then caught a bus to La Arena, just before Pobeña, strategically skipping approximately 25 kilometers of the trail. This decision was driven by our need to stay on schedule. While sitting at a charming cafe in La Arena, we were pleasantly surprised to see Joe and Emilie walk up. Our calculations predicted this might happen, but the timing was perfect. Several other pilgrims soon joined, and we exchanged stories of our diverse experiences since our paths had last crossed.

The four of us, now a reunited band of travelers, continued our journey together. We walked along a scenic boardwalk leading us to Pobeña, where we crossed a bouncy pedestrian suspension bridge. The subtle swaying of the bridge under our feet added a mildly dizzying effect to our next 100 steps.

Leaving Pobeña, we encountered a short, steep stair climb. The effort was well worth it as it led us to a breathtaking cliffside stroll, offering panoramic views of the rugged coastline. Our next destination, the village of Ontón, marked the official exit from the Basque Country and the beginning of Cantabria. The transition from one region to another was hardly noticed, but we did notice that signs no longer included the Basque names as well as the Spanish names.

In Ontón, we met Ellen and Magnus, a friendly couple from Copenhagen. We sat on the curb , the six od us, eating a snack and resting our feet. Then we temporarily parted ways with Emilie and Joe, who opted for a slightly longer alternate route. We chose a highway walk, a road with no shoulders, which made for an unnerving and sketchy experience at times. However, the presence of many cyclists and pedestrians kept the traffic alert and cautious.

We descended into the small town of Minton and took a well-deserved break at a charming little park. Refreshed, we walked two minutes to Mo's Tavern. Here, we indulged in pintxos and cafe con leche, a perfect snack to fuel the final leg of our journey. Mo's Tavern, or "Taberna Mou" was painted with images of the tavern from the YV show "The Simpson's".

The last stretch of our hike took us through a long pedestrian tunnel, filled with refreshingly cool air. Emerging from the tunnel, we found ourselves on a dirt road leading into Castro Urdiales. The rustic path gave way to the vibrant town, where we planned to stay for the night.

After checking into our pensión and decompressing, we decided to go grocery shopping. While in the store, we unexpectedly ran into Mirriam and Sean, a couple from England whom we first met in Deba. Despite having little time to walk and talk with them previously, this chance meeting offered an opportunity to catch up.

As evening approached, we took a leisurely walk down to the shoreline. We were greeted by the festive sounds of "Vive la fiesta de Castro Urdiales" at the waterfront park. The Spaniards’ love for celebration was evident, and we joined in, enjoying the festivities with a cup of beer in hand.

Our final destination for the day was the Santa Maria Church and the adjacent castle, which also serves as a lighthouse. The church, a stunning example of Gothic architecture, stood majestically overlooking the sea. Its history dates back to the 13th century, and it has been a vital part of Castro Urdiales' cultural and spiritual life ever since. Adjacent to the church, the castle, originally built as a fortress, now serves as a lighthouse guiding sailors safely to shore.

As the sun set, casting a golden glow over the ancient stone structures, we felt a deep sense of accomplishment. The day had new challenges, but it held familiar camaraderie. We returned to our pension, ready to rest and recharge for the next leg of our journey.

Day 7: Zero in Bilbao

Our day began in the heart of Bilbao at the cozy 7Kale B&B, in the historic Casco Viejo district. The old quarter, with its narrow streets and vibrant atmosphere, offered a rainy start to our rest day on the Camino del Norte. After a hearty breakfast at the B&B, we set about our chores for the morning.

(I know it's upside down, just stretch your neck)

Apricots tackled the laundry, a necessary task after days on the trail, while Psycho sorted through gear to determine what could be sent home. The Camino can be demanding, and lightening our load seemed like a prudent choice. However, we quickly discovered that finding a postal service open on a Saturday was more challenging than anticipated. Every office we sought out was closed, forcing us to carry the extra gear for another day or two until we could find an open post office further along the route.

Determined not to let this minor setback dampen our spirits, we turned our attention to navigating Bilbao's public transportation system. This proved to be a bit of an adventure in itself, especially after Psycho realized he had made a mistake in our itinerary, missing a day of mileage. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it allowed Apricots' feet some much-needed healing time. The public transportation system will be our ally, enabling us to skip over a reportedly dull industrial zone that many pilgrims advised against walking.

Next on our agenda was shoe shopping. The search for more breathable, supportive footwear was paramount given the wear and tear on our feet. We had anxiety figuring out how a mall works, its different over here. Each floor of the mall was focused differently, but many vendors shared the floor space, rather than the individual brand cubicles you see in American malls. We left the mall before our heads became too overwhelmed.

Down the street we found a shoe store. The saleswoman helped Apricots find what wr hope to be a perfect pair (like us). We are hopeful that these new shoes will carry us comfortably through the remaining kilometers of our journey.

With our new shoes in hand, or rather on foot, we sought out a classic meal to recharge our energies: hamburgers, fries, and a shake. This simple yet satisfying lunch gave us a taste of home in the midst of our travels, providing a comforting respite from the more traditional Spanish fare we'd been enjoying.

In the afternoon, we made our way to the Guggenheim Museum, an iconic symbol of Bilbao. While we didn't venture inside, the museum's stunning exterior, designed by architect Frank Gehry, was a sight to behold. Gehry was Psycho's favorite architect when he was a student of Architecture. The titanium-clad structure gleamed in the light, its curves and lines creating a dynamic piece of art in its own right. The Puppy, a large floral sculpture by Jeff Koons, stood guard at the entrance. Apricots argues that it is a kitten.

Our exploration concluded with a café con leche at a nearby café, a moment to reflect on our day's adventures and plan for the next leg of our journey. We wandered semi aimlessly in the direction of the B&B taking in the sights.

In the evening, we bought some groceries and enjoyed a simple dinner in the comfort of our room. The rest day had been both productive and relaxing, a necessary pause before continuing our trek.

Tomorrow, we'll commute to Pobena to resume our hike, hopeful to reconnect with our fellow pilgrims, Joe and Emilie, who bravely continued through today's dense rain. The Camino del Norte has already offered us many experiences, and we look forward to those that lie ahead.

Day 6: Gernika to Bilbao

Last night we sat in our room having a modest dinner. It was like picnic in a bed, and such good fun! We were unable to finish the massive bucket of olives that we impulse bought while grocery shopping on an empty stomach. Oops.

The early morning air was cool, and slighty misty as we set off on another long day of hiking on the Camino del Norte, moving from the historic town of Gernika to the bustling city of Bilbao. Gernika was still in the darkness of night and silent. This town, infamous for the devastating bombing during the Spanish Civil War, was now a peaceful place where we devoured the last of our olives while traversing its quiet streets.

Our path quickly turned into a steep and muddy climb out of the city. Dawn began to break as we reached the top, where we took a break and ate our oatmeal. The tranquility of the moment was only disturbed by the occasional bird call, or our own gripes about muddy trails, achey feet, and underslept bodies. Post oatmeal, we set off along a dirt road that led us through a eucalyptus forest. The scent of the trees was strong, the oils filling the air, as their paper-like bark and leaves crunched into the mud beneath our feet.

As we continued, a short but treacherous descent awaited us. The mud was so slippery that Psycho, lost his footing, resulting in a muddied knee and a slightly twisted wrist. Emerging from the forest onto a paved road, we picked up the pace, grateful for the firmer ground beneath our feet, even with the knowledge that paving has its own wear on the body.

Five kilometers from Larrebetzu, we faced another muddy climb. At the top, Apricots quipped, "Now we get to slide down," anticipating the slippery descent. While we managed to stay on our feet, our shoes collected enough mud to feel noticeably heavier. 

Reaching Larrebetzu, we were more than ready for a break. We found a cozy café and indulged in café con leche and pintxos, giving our weary feet a much-needed rest. This charming town, like many others in the Basque Country, was rich with history and culture, its streets lined with traditional Basque architecture.

With 14 kilometers still ahead of us, we set off again. The remainder of the journey was mostly on paved roads. While the smoother path allowed for a quicker pace, it took a toll on our feet. We stopped in Lezama, to use the restroom and, of course, grab another coffee. As we sat in the café, we were entertained by a traveling lottery ticket salesman, a common sight in Spain.

As we left the café, Joe and Emilie, fellow pilgrims we had met earlier, caught up to us. We decided to continue together, sharing stories and talking to each other along the way, and gripe laughing about the mud. 

We stopped one last time for a hydrating beverage and more pintxos before tackling the almost 1000-foot hill climb just outside Bilbao. By this point, we had nearly covered 20 miles, and the humidity and heat had started to rise, making the ascent more challenging. At the summit, we rested at a lookout park, taking in the panoramic views of Bilbao below. The city was a welcoming sight after a long day.

The descent into Bilbao was steep but manageable. Upon arrival, the city's energy was palpable. Despite our exhaustion, we attended to our end-of-day needs—finding our accommodation, showering, and resting briefly before heading out to explore. Bilbao, with its lively streets and rich history, beckoned us to discover its many treasures. We of course just wanted dinner. Tomorrow was a day for exploration.

Dinner that night was a joyous affair with Emilie and Joe. We had some pintxos, savoring the variety of flavors that the Basque cuisine offered. After dinner, we returned to our hotel, only to be greeted by the sounds of a parade outside. The Spaniards, known for their love of festivals, were celebrating with a lively marching drum performance. Unable to resist, we joined the crowd, enjoying the vibrant display before finally turning in for the night.

For the first time in days, we set no alarm clocks. The sounds of Bilbao's nightlife gradually faded as we drifted off to sleep, our bodies weary but our spirits high from the day’s adventure on the Camino del Norte. The hike to Bilbao had been long and challenging, but it was also filled with the beauty of fog covered landscapes, and the tapestry of Basque history and culture greeting us in the towns along rhe way.