Our day began with another early start, the pre-dawn light barely touching the horizon as we left Markina-Xemein. We were keen to beat the heat, anticipating the challenging day ahead. The promise of frequent stops for café con leche spurred us on. It was just before 6 AM when we set out, the air still cool and the sky a canvas of soft hues.
Following a charming babbling creek out of town, we found solace in the tranquil sounds of small waterfalls. The creek, flowing, accompanied us as we walked. The path led us to a choice: cross a modern concrete bridge or take the historic stone bridge. We chose the latter, the rough-hewn stones a tangible connection to the pilgrims who had traversed this route before us.
The morning light grew as we continued, and we were serenaded by the unique songs of birds unfamiliar to us, their songs adding to our hike. Soon, we arrived in Bolivar, a quaint town that welcomed us warmly. We settled next to the church, savoring café con leche and a warm chocolate croissant that was simply exquisite. This little respite, felt like a reward for our early start.
Just past Bolivar, we encountered the Monasterio de Zenarruza, that has stood the test of time. The monastery's history dates back to the 14th century, serving as a haven for pilgrims and a center of spiritual reflection. They craft cider at the Monastery, but we were not preaent at a time where we could try some.
Much of our day was spent in the company of fellow pilgrims, Emilie and Joe. Their companionship added a joyful dimension to our journey. We shared stories that made the miles slip away almost unnoticed. The trail, winding through lush green landscapes, and past rustic homes seemed less arduous in such good company.
Our path led us to the Puente Artzubi, an ancient stone bridge arching gracefully over a creek. We seized the opportunity to rest and soak our weary feet in the cool, refreshing water. The relief was immediate and invigorating.
A short while later, we found ourselves at the Iglesia Santo Tomas. The church, with its rustic charm, offered a perfect spot to pause and hydrate. We drank water, electrolytes, and more coffee, replenishing our energy for the miles ahead. As we left, a cat joined us and walked us down the hill, splitting paths a few hundred feet down the road.
As we resumed our hike, the sun climbed higher, but to our good fortune, it was behind the clouds and fog. The day was not as hot as antipated and the kilometers seemed to slip past quickly. Apricots declared, "I'm putting my headphones on to close out the kilometers." The podcasr provided a private escape, a way to push through the fatigue and maintain the pace. Psycho listened to music for an hour.
Our final stretch brought us to a church perched on a hill overlooking Gernika. The view was of our destination, the town spread out below us. Here, we sat down for a meal with Joe and Emilie, joined by two peregrinos from Texas, Sally and John.
Arriving in Gernika, we felt a sense of accomplishment mixed with relief. Our first stop was our boarding house, where we allowed ourselves a moment of decompression. The day’s exertions melted away as we rested. Later, we ventured out for groceries, navigating the charming streets of Gernika. Dinner was a modest affair, enjoyed on the bed, but it tasted heavenly after the long day’s hike.
Tomorrow we hope to push ourselves to Bilbao.
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