Saturday, June 22, 2024

Day 0: Zero in Irun

The morning began with the two weary travelers waking from a long restful sleep. We started our day with a hearty breakfast at the Hotel Alcazar. The hotel, with its elegant, old-world charm, provides us a comforting start to our journey. The dining room was filled with the aroma of pastries and strong coffee. We savored our meal, knowing that we needed the energy for the day ahead.

After breakfast, we set off towards the France-Spain border. The air was crisp, and the sky was overcast. Several locals were going about their routines. The walk to the border was short, but it felt like a journey back in time, crossing from one country to another with just a few steps. The bridge over the Bidasoa River, which separates France and Spain, was a symbolic gateway to our adventure. 

Stepping back onto Spanish soil, we felt the historical setting in our surroundings looking at buildings flying flags from their windows, honoring the Basque region. As we continued walking, it was exciting to think about all the pilgrims and travelers who had crossed that bridge and walked along the canal over the years.
Our first stop in Irun was to take a picture at the Camino del Norte marker. This marker, a symbol of hope and determination for many pilgrims, stood proudly at the beginning of our path. The yellow scallop shell on a blue background was a reassuring sight, reminding us that we were on the right track. We snapped a few photos, capturing the excitement of the start of our Camino journey.

From the marker, we followed the path along the canal. The canal, lined with tall, leafy trees, provided a tranquil setting for our walk. Apricots took time to point out the ducks (los patos). The gentle flow of the water and the chirping of birds created a peaceful atmosphere. As we walked, we passed by charming houses with colorful facades and well-tended gardens, each one adding to the picturesque scenery.

Our next destination was the Church of Santa Maria del Juncal. This beautiful church, with its striking architecture, dates back to the 16th century. Construction began in 1508, and the Baroque facade is a testament to Irun's rich history. The intricate details of the church’s façade, from the carved stone figures to the towering spires, were awe-inspiring. Inside, the cool, dim interior was a stark contrast to the bright morning outside. We took a moment to sit in the pews, appreciating the serene ambiance and the sense of history that filled the space. Then we lit candles to honor family members no longer with us, but who would surely enjoy seeing us on this journey.
After the church visit, we regrouped at the hotel, taking a brief respite before continuing our journey. The short break allowed us to recharge and refocus, ensuring we were ready for the next part of our walk.

Our next mission was to find our Camino Credentials, essential for any pilgrim walking the Camino. We headed to a second church, hopeful to obtain our credentials, but found it closed. Slightly disappointed but undeterred, we decided to take a detour to a nearby café. On our way to the café, we crossed paths with two peregrinos from the Netherlands, we chatted briefly and wished them Buen Camino before heading to the café. 

The café was a lively spot, filled with locals enjoying their mid-morning break. We ordered Pintxos, the Basque version of tapas, which were arranged on the counter.  Accompanied by rich Café con leche, it was the perfect pick-me-up. The atmosphere in the café was warm and welcoming, and we enjoyed watching the locals, as we planned out the next part of our day.

With our hunger satisfied, we made our way to a grocery store to buy supplies for the next day’s hike to San Sebastian. The store was bustling with activity, and the shelves were filled with groceries labeled in spanish. We carefully selected items that would sustain us on our journey: crusty bread, ripe tomatoes, local cheese, and cured ham. We also picked up some nuts for quick energy boosts along the way. We bought a few other lunch and breakfast supplies, hoping to keep our travel costs down by limiting our restaurant exposure. The overall cost was much cheaper than we expected, probably about 60-70% the expected cost. 

As we left the store, we returned to hotel and we took a moment to appreciate the day’s experiences. Outside our hotel window, we can hear the music of a passing parade. We think it might be people celebrating soccer, as the EURO 2024 matches are taking place right now. Spain won their last match. Perhaps we will watch their next match on Monday. 

The anticipation of what lays ahead, combined with the warm memories of the day, filled us with a sense of adventure and excitement. Psycho is already ready to head out, but we must enjoy a dinner first. We start tomorrow, not today. Although we did cover 1.7 miles today. See the map video below.

https://youtu.be/GQDW5_sPBgk?feature=shared

The Camino del Norte awaits, and we are ready to embrace all that it has to offer. But first we will enjoy some more pintxos, una cerveza, y una hamburguesa. 

https://youtu.be/T5XaRad-Zwg

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