The path took us up a gentle incline, our headlamps illuminating the trail underfoot. We walked in near silence, the early morning’s serenity creating an atmosphere to compete our disgruntled sleep. After a few kilometers, we reached a hilltop, and the first signs of dawn began to paint the sky with soft hues of pink and orange.
Continuing along in the now almost awake landscape, we found our way to the first church of the day, atop the hill of our first climb. The church, Calvatio/Kolbaixo was gazing out over the Atlantic Ocean. The view from here was amazing, the ocean stretching endlessly, a perfect spot for coffee out of the backpack.
As we descended from the hill, we found ourselves on a narrow road flanked by a solemn promenade of crosses. Each cross a silent witness to our travels. Apricots watched as a kitten guided us down the road to Ibiri. The road curved and dipped, leading us through quaint rural landscapes, the air fresh with the scent of morning dew and blooming wildflowers. Psycho commented that the aroma brought him back to his childhood.
A little further along, the landscape shifted to a more bucolic and forested area. The trail meandered through dense woods, the canopy above providing a welcome shade as the sun climbed higher in the sky. After some time, we arrived at the small village of Olatz, where another church awaited us. This modest church could have offered a peaceful respite. We, however, knew that the big climb of the day lay before us.
Our next challenge loomed ahead—a steep, paved climb that promised to test our endurance. The path rose sharply, and we began our ascent, the incline becoming steeper with each step. Sweat poured down our faces, and our breaths came in labored gasps as we pushed ourselves upward. The humidity and sweat made it feel like we were swimming in our clothes, and it was still early morning. By the time we reached the high point of the day’s hike, it was only 9 AM, yet the effort had left us thoroughly exhausted. Fortunately, the descent that followed was on a shaded dirt road, offering some relief from the morning sun. The cool shade and the gentle decline allowed us to regain our strength as we continued our journey.
About six miles outside of Markina-Xemein, we stumbled upon a welcome surprise. A local had set up a small stand with cold sodas and coffee, a gesture of hospitality that felt like a lifesaver. Apricots suggested splitting a soda, but Psycho, laughed and insisted, "Drink your own." Resting on the cool stone near the stand, we felt our energy slowly returning.
As we resumed our hike, we found ourselves intersecting paths with other peregrinos. Joe and Emilie, a couple from Sweden, joined us for the final leg of the descent. We shared stories of our experiences on the Camino, the conversation lightening our spirits and making the kilometers seem shorter. The descent took us through a forested landscape dominated by eucalyptus trees, their distinctive scent filling the air.
The last part of the descent was the most challenging. A light rain began to fall, cooling us but also making the trail mildly slippery. The path grew steeper, and we had to navigate a section covered in baseball-sized gravel. A rope had been installed along the side for extra support, and we sometimes clung to it as we carefully made our way down.
Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we arrived in Markina-Xemein. Our final destination was the San Miguel Church before heading to the hostel.
A local kindly guided us to Intxauspe Landetxea, our refuge after a long and arduous day. The hostel’s warm and welcoming atmosphere was a balm to our weary bodies and spirits. We decompressed on the lawn, talking and laughing with Joe and Emilie, reflecting on the day’s journey. The host, understanding the needs of tired pilgrims, graciously gave us bottom bunks, knowing they were preferred.
In the evening, we dined with seven other peregrinos. Emilie and Joe from Sweden, two from Finland, two from Portugal, and a veteran peregrino from Spain. This 74 old man led the table conversation keeping everyone captive as he shared his knowledge of all the trails and helped include everyone.
His last insight was that all peregrinos must have:
1. Suffering
2. Perseverance
3. Humility
Well, we have suffered, but we have also made it through the last four days. Tomorrow is another challenging one. I would say "Bring it"... but then, where's the humility?
No comments:
Post a Comment