We started today's journey on the Camino del Norte in the early dawn light of San Sebastián. The city, known for its stunning coastal scenery and culinary delights, was just beginning to stir as we set off. The sun had barely peeked over the horizon. The dramatic intersection of sun with the last of yesterday's clouds cast silver rays which reflected off the ocean along the crescent beach, La Concha. The cool morning air was fresh with the faint scent of the sea, and the rhythmic sound of waves provided a beautiful backdrop for the start of our hike.
The beach was almost deserted, save for a few early risers taking their morning runs, and a few people scuba diving off the shoreline. At the end of the beach, we found a cozy café where we paused for a brief break. A steaming cup of café con leche revived our spirits, and we savored the simple pleasure of sipping coffee by the sea, before a steep climb.
Leaving the beach behind, we began our ascent out of San Sebastián. The climb started with a steep staircase that seemed to go on forever, each step taking us higher above the city. As we ascended, the urban noise faded, replaced by the sounds of nature. The view from the top was breathtaking; the city of San Sebastián sprawled out below, framed by the sparkling waters of the Bay of Biscay.
Our path led us into a rural coastal landscape, a stark contrast to the bustling city we had just left. The air here was filled with the rich, earthy scents of the countryside, mixed with the occasional spikes of floral scents from the increasing humidity. We walked past an aromatic dairy farm, the scent of fresh hay and livestock mingling in the air. The pastoral scenes came one after the other adding charm to our journey, and a hint of desire to live here.
The trail then narrowed, winding through dense thickets and up towards a small, sheltered tea stand. The climb was gentler than the first ascent, but equally as rewarding. The tea stand, nestled among the trees, was a welcome respite. We rested here, eating a small snack before carrying on.
As we continued, the trail became increasingly muddy, a remnant of the previous day's rain. The ground was treacherous in places, worn down to very knobby stones that may have one resembled a road traveled by countless travelers before us. In some areas, water trickled down the path in cascading pools, turning the trail into a miniature river. Despite our best efforts, it was impossible to avoid the mud completely. Our boots squelched with each step, and we were soon covered in mud splatters.
Our next stop was Txoko del Peregrino, just outside of Orio. This charming rest spot was a haven for weary pilgrims. We gratefully took rested our feet, enjoying another round of coffee. The café was lively, filled with fellow hikers. The camaraderie among the travelers was beginning to make its presence known, with our shared sense of purpose and adventure.
Refreshed, we continued our journey, descending a steep, historic road that had seen centuries of foot traffic. The road, cobbled and knobby, wound its way through dappled sunlight, leading us into a picturesque pastoral scene. To our right, grazing sheep with tinkling bells provided a soothing soundtrack, while to our left, a vineyard stretched out, its neatly ordered rows of vines heavy with grapes.
Entering Orio, we were greeted by narrow cobbled streets flanked by tall, ancient buildings. The charm of this historic town was undeniable, and we couldn't resist stopping for a quick café con hielo. The cool, refreshing coffee was the perfect antidote to the heat of the day and the weariness of our journey.
Leaving Orio, we followed the river, the path gently rising and falling as it meandered through the countryside. We climbed over a hill covered in vineyards, the lush greenery vibrant under the midday sun. The final descent into Zarautz felt steep as our feet were beginning to fatigue. The town unfolded below us in a picturesque panorama.
Zarautz, known for its long sandy beach and lively atmosphere, was a welcome sight. We made our way to the Blai Blai Hostel, our home for the night. Despite our mud-splattered clothes and weary legs, the hostel welcomed our smelly selfs with its friendly atmosphere and well-equipped kitchen. It was the perfect place to relax and unwind. We enjoyed cooking dinner, savoring the simple pleasure of a hearty meal after a long day of hiking. A cold beer out front, was the perfect end to today.
The Blai Blai Hostel proved to be an excellent choice. As we settle in for the night, we reflected on the our next few days.
Thank you for joining us on this journey.
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