Day 6: Gernika to Bilbao

Last night we sat in our room having a modest dinner. It was like picnic in a bed, and such good fun! We were unable to finish the massive bucket of olives that we impulse bought while grocery shopping on an empty stomach. Oops.

The early morning air was cool, and slighty misty as we set off on another long day of hiking on the Camino del Norte, moving from the historic town of Gernika to the bustling city of Bilbao. Gernika was still in the darkness of night and silent. This town, infamous for the devastating bombing during the Spanish Civil War, was now a peaceful place where we devoured the last of our olives while traversing its quiet streets.

Our path quickly turned into a steep and muddy climb out of the city. Dawn began to break as we reached the top, where we took a break and ate our oatmeal. The tranquility of the moment was only disturbed by the occasional bird call, or our own gripes about muddy trails, achey feet, and underslept bodies. Post oatmeal, we set off along a dirt road that led us through a eucalyptus forest. The scent of the trees was strong, the oils filling the air, as their paper-like bark and leaves crunched into the mud beneath our feet.

As we continued, a short but treacherous descent awaited us. The mud was so slippery that Psycho, lost his footing, resulting in a muddied knee and a slightly twisted wrist. Emerging from the forest onto a paved road, we picked up the pace, grateful for the firmer ground beneath our feet, even with the knowledge that paving has its own wear on the body.

Five kilometers from Larrebetzu, we faced another muddy climb. At the top, Apricots quipped, "Now we get to slide down," anticipating the slippery descent. While we managed to stay on our feet, our shoes collected enough mud to feel noticeably heavier. 

Reaching Larrebetzu, we were more than ready for a break. We found a cozy café and indulged in café con leche and pintxos, giving our weary feet a much-needed rest. This charming town, like many others in the Basque Country, was rich with history and culture, its streets lined with traditional Basque architecture.

With 14 kilometers still ahead of us, we set off again. The remainder of the journey was mostly on paved roads. While the smoother path allowed for a quicker pace, it took a toll on our feet. We stopped in Lezama, to use the restroom and, of course, grab another coffee. As we sat in the café, we were entertained by a traveling lottery ticket salesman, a common sight in Spain.

As we left the café, Joe and Emilie, fellow pilgrims we had met earlier, caught up to us. We decided to continue together, sharing stories and talking to each other along the way, and gripe laughing about the mud. 

We stopped one last time for a hydrating beverage and more pintxos before tackling the almost 1000-foot hill climb just outside Bilbao. By this point, we had nearly covered 20 miles, and the humidity and heat had started to rise, making the ascent more challenging. At the summit, we rested at a lookout park, taking in the panoramic views of Bilbao below. The city was a welcoming sight after a long day.

The descent into Bilbao was steep but manageable. Upon arrival, the city's energy was palpable. Despite our exhaustion, we attended to our end-of-day needs—finding our accommodation, showering, and resting briefly before heading out to explore. Bilbao, with its lively streets and rich history, beckoned us to discover its many treasures. We of course just wanted dinner. Tomorrow was a day for exploration.

Dinner that night was a joyous affair with Emilie and Joe. We had some pintxos, savoring the variety of flavors that the Basque cuisine offered. After dinner, we returned to our hotel, only to be greeted by the sounds of a parade outside. The Spaniards, known for their love of festivals, were celebrating with a lively marching drum performance. Unable to resist, we joined the crowd, enjoying the vibrant display before finally turning in for the night.

For the first time in days, we set no alarm clocks. The sounds of Bilbao's nightlife gradually faded as we drifted off to sleep, our bodies weary but our spirits high from the day’s adventure on the Camino del Norte. The hike to Bilbao had been long and challenging, but it was also filled with the beauty of fog covered landscapes, and the tapestry of Basque history and culture greeting us in the towns along rhe way.