Day 10: A walk to La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto

We woke early in Laredo, the sun just beginning to cast its soft light over the sleepy town. The air was fresh with a hint of the ocean, and we started our day with a modest breakfast at a small café. After breakfast, we set out on a gentle 4-kilometer walk to the Laredo-Santoña ferry crossing, our filled with anticipation for the day's first adventure, a ferry crossing. We of course double checked prices before showing up and made sure the money was present to avoid the chaos of the previous misinformed ferry ride.

Arriving at the ferry dock (or should I say beach) earlier than planned, we found ourselves with some time to spare. We settled down on the beach, the sand cool beneath us, and watched as the boats passed through the river toward the ocean. The landing gradually came to life with other peregrinos. One by one, other peregrinos joined us, their faces reflecting the same bit of excitement that we felt. By the time the ferry was ready to depart, a small community of about 20-25 pilgrims had gathered, bound together by the shared path of the Camino.

The ferry ride was brief but refreshing. We docked in Santoña, a town rich with maritime history and known for its anchovy production. We passed on having anchovies to start the day. Instead we took the quick coffee break we have come to value regularly. In a hole in the wall restaurant, we sat inside, savoring the strong, dark brew that would fuel us for the next leg of our journey. We set off, walking alongside the imposing walls of the Santoña Penitentiary. This high-security prison, built in the early 20th century, loomed next to us for ten minutes of walking along its outer wall.

Leaving Santoña, we encountered our first real challenge of the day: a short but steep climb over a hill thick with bushes. As we ascended, the views opened up, revealing sweeping sandy beaches on either side. The sight was breathtaking, the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean stretching out before us. Descending from the hill, we found ourselves on one of these beaches. We couldn't resist the temptation to remove our shoes and let the cool waters of the Atlantic lap at our feet. For a while, we walked barefoot, savoring the simple pleasure of "a long walk on the beach."

Our path led us through the town of Noja, where we took a brief lunch break on its outskirts. We had a triple decker crab-salad ham and cheese sandwich in Castillo Siete Villas. The road from Noja was narrow and paved, winding through rural farmland. The thick, sweet smell of humidity mixed with the earthy scents of farms filled the air, a sensory mix of pleasant but not really pleasant smells. Our feet grew tired as the afternoon heat set in, but we pressed on, motivated by the promise of rest at our next stop.

By mid-afternoon, we reached the Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto, a place many peregrinos consider one of the most meaningful stops along the Camino. The albergue was a haven, its beautiful property capable of hosting over 200 pilgrims. We settled in, grateful for the respite, and soon found ourselves on the lawn, chatting with fellow travelers. Magnus and Ellen from Copenhagen, and Andreu from Spain, shared their stories, and we recounted a few tales from our hike on the Pacific Crest Trail. The camaraderie was practically a given, a testament to the bonds formed on such endeavors as a long hike.

As the day began to wane, around 7 PM, roughly 60 peregrinos from 11 different countries gathered in the common space. We were there to hear a greeting from the 87-year-old practicing priest who had helped build and now ran the establishment with the assistance of volunteer work. His words were heartfelt, and his presence a reminder of the enduring spirit of the Camino. The albergue, a labor of love and community, stood in support for those making the pilgrimage.

After the introductions, we all made our way to the dining hall for dinner. The meal was simple but satisfying, accompanied by wine that flowed freely, encouraging conversation and laughter. As the night drew to a close, we turned in, knowing the process will repeat tomorrow, but also be wildly different. Each day offers a different reward, and different challenges.