The alarm buzzed quietly on the wrist. Psycho groaned, his body craving the comfort of an extra hour's sleep, but yesterday's blistering heat was still fresh in our minds. The memory of the sun's relentless rays spurred us into motion, determined to make an early start and avoid hiking in the oppressive midday heat.
As we stepped outside, a light breeze greeted us, whispering through the trees and carrying the scent of dew. The sky was a deep, velvety black, devoid of stars, signaling that dawn was still a ways off. The weather seemed promising, a favorable omen for the journey ahead. Perhaps we even had cloud coverage.
Our peaceful start was abruptly shattered by the furious barking of three unchained dogs. Their fearsime barks sent shivers down our spines, hearts pounding as we skirted cautiously past them and quickened our pace to distance ourselves from the potential threat. Just as we were catching our breath, a car sped by, headlights cutting through the darkness like a knife. The suddenness of it all heightened our senses, making the cemetery we passed by seem even more eerie in the predawn light. Shadows danced among the tombstones, and we couldn't shake the feeling of being close to death.
But the light came, and with it peace and enthusiasm for the day. Caught up in a lively conversation about former teachers we have had, we missed a crucial turn. Realizing our mistake, we retraced our steps, adding an extra half-kilometer to our journey.
Back on trail we began an ascent, climbing to a rocky hilltop where white stones jutted out from the grassy expanse. The view from the top was breathtaking, a panoramic display of nature's fog. If the fog and clouds were gone, it would be even more amazing. We then descended into a forest of towering eucalyptus trees, their scent invigorating us.
Continuing through a series of rural properties, we took a simple snack break at a charming picnic table just outside Merlán de Seixas. The tranquility of the spot, with its rustic charm and the gentle sounds of nature, offered a perfect respite.
With renewed energy, we tackled the last major hill of the day. The climb was challenging but rewarded us with a descent through a short forest patch, emerging below a canopy of clouds that hung low over fields of golden grass. The cool wind at our backs was a comforting companion, pushing us gently forward.
Our stomachs grumbled in anticipation as we reached a quaint café with a delightful goldfish pond outside. The pastries were delicious and paired perfectly with a beautifully poured cafe con leche. We lingered there, savoring each bite and sip, the pond's goldfish darting playfully below the surface, adding a touch of serenity to our break.
Energized, we made a brisk march towards Melide, a bustling junction where the Camino Primitivo meets the Camino Frances. Our simple lunch was a hearty affair, refueling us for the final stretch. Before resuming our trek, we stepped into the Iglesia de Santa Maria. The ancient church, steeped in history, was finishing a service for St. James Day. We collected our credential stamp and stepped out onto the Camino Frances.
Merging onto the Camino Frances, we were engulfed by a sea of peregrinos. The route transformed into a bustling freeway, with at least five and sometimes as many as fifty pilgrims visible at any given moment. The energy should be palpable, a vibrant tapestry of humanity united in a common goal, but it was hard to not be disgruntled at the loss of quiet solitude that we were used to. With this many pilgrims, everyone seemed to be pushing their way forward with less enthusiasm at seeing another pilgrim.
The last five kilometers were a testament to our stamina and determination. We marched with confidence, comfort, and speed, overtaking almost every peregrino we encountered. The rising heat pusged us forward, and soon we arrived at our destination in Boente. We watched as the droves of walkers continued their journey under the punishing heat of the midday sun.
After settling in, we found solace by the pool, enjoying a well-deserved snack. The atmosphere was lively, filled with the chatter and laughter of fellow pilgrims. Yet, there was a noticeable difference between these pulgrims, ans those of the Primitivo. The former seemed to approach the pilgrimage with a more touristy vibe, indulging in drinking, smoking, flirting, and even impromptu push-up competitions by the pool. It was a stark contrast to the contemplative and spiritual journey we had embarked on, highlighting the diverse ways in which the Camino is experienced by its many travelers.
We hope to do the Frances route one day, but this peak season traffic is too busy for our tastes, and we will have to find a different time time to tackle this route. This would avoid the heat, but introduce the complexity of weather. This is a challenge we will explore as we talk more about our next Camino.
We know that it is easy to point out the different peregrinos, and contrast them, but each individual hikes their own way. It has just been a shock to our norm. One day, we might be on the other side of the coin.
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