Sunday, July 7, 2024

Day 15: Comillas to Columbres

The day began with the soft chime of an alarm at the casual hour of 6 am. Rising from our cozy beds in Comillas, we prepared for the journey ahead, showering quickly to shake off the early morning haze. With backpacks packed and spirits high, we left the comfort of our hotel, stepping into the awakening world outside. As we walked down the last neighborhood street, the crisp morning air was filled with the fresh scent of oranges, a quick and refreshing breakfast as we began our hike.

Leaving Comillas behind, we soon found ourselves immersed in the natural beauty of Oyambre National Park. The path led us through lush landscapes and over rivers that formed estuaries within the park. Peering down into the clear waters, we could see the ripples made by fish swimming just below the surface, their movements creating a mesmerizing pattern. The tranquility of the park, with its rich biodiversity and serene environment, provided a peaceful start to our trek.
Our walk took a turn of delight when two playful kittens appeared. The white one, shy and cautious, darted away immediately, while the black one seemed curious, approaching us with tentative steps. Psycho bent down to pet the black kitten, but it too decided to retreat to safety at the last moment.

As we began our ascent up a hill, the path rewarded us with magnificent coastal views. The sight of the expansive ocean meeting the sky was breathtaking. A clear line between clouds and clear skies split the skyline. The trail was shared with numerous snails, slowly making their way across, requiring us to watch our steps to avoid them. The combination of stunning scenery and the delicate task of snail-dodging made this part of the hike both challenging and rewarding.
Before long, we reached a small café just before San Vicente de la Barquera. We took a much-needed break, savoring the rich flavor of café con leche and a light snack. Refreshed, we continued into San Vicente de la Barquera, a town steeped in history. Walking across two historic bridges, the Puente de la Maza and Puente del Parral. The town, once a significant medieval port, still held echoes of its storied past in its buildings and streets.

Leaving San Vicente de la Barquera, we faced another climb. This ascent offered splendid views of the town receding behind us, a picturesque backdrop as we made a quick stop at a gas station to buy soda. The next stretch of our journey led us along fairly unscenic stressful highway miles. To pass the time, we plugged in our music and podcasts, allowing the steady rhythm of our footsteps to sync with the sounds in our ears.

After what felt like a long grind, we finally veered off the highway and onto more scenic backroads just outside Pesués. The trail ran alongside a rail line. As we approached the town of Unquera, which lies on the border of Cantabria and Asturias, we were ready for lunch.
We found a welcoming restaurant bar and settled in for a hearty meal. The menu del dia offered a variety of choices. Apricots went for prawns, and Psycho took the chance to have beef. With glasses of wine in hand, we enjoyed our lunch, a brief but delightful respite from the trail.
The joy of a good meal was soon tempered by the realization that the next part of the trail involved a steep climb. With full stomachs, the ascent seemed particularly arduous, each false summit teasing us with hopes of relief. However, the climb was relatively short, and soon enough, we reached the top, where the path leveled out.
Moments later, we arrived in Colombres, a small town with a distinctive character. We sat outside our accommodations, waiting for our room to be ready, taking the opportunity to rest our weary legs. Ten minutes later, we checked into a nice room, beginning our usual end-of-day routine of showering, changing into comfortable clothes, and reflecting on the day’s journey.
In the late afternoon, we took a short walk around Colombres. The town's architecture intrigued us, with many buildings displaying a noticeable Latin American influence. This observation led us to the Museum del Archivo de Indianos, dedicated to Spaniards who had returned from Latin America with newfound wealth. The museum offered insights into how these individuals contributed to the local culture and economy, reinforcing our earlier impressions of the town's unique architectural style.
As the day wound down, we returned to our room, the fatigue of the hike settling in. We spent the evening watching a little YouTube, a comforting and familiar end to a day filled with new experiences. 

Soon, sleep called, and we surrendered to it, knowing that another day on the Camino del Norte awaited us. 

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