Waking up at 6 AM in the Albergue, we were greeted with the simplicity and warmth that have come to define our journey on the Camino Del Norte. The morning air was cool, and the sky just beginning to hint at dawn. We gathered for breakfast, a humble yet comforting spread of coffee, bread, butter, and jam, supplemented by a handful of crackers. It was a modest meal, but it carried the generosity of the people who opened their doors to pilgrims like us. The Albergue is a donostia, which means everything is offered for free, and you can donate what you feel is appropriate for your needs.
By 7 AM, we were on the road, leaving behind the Albergue's welcoming walls. The landscape soon filled with the rich, pungent aroma of cattle, a constant reminder of the rural backdrop through which we traversed. The winding roads took us through lush fields and quaint homes, each step bringing us closer to the coast. Our first real respite came at a fancy hotel near the beach, where we indulged in a luxurious café con leche, savoring the rich, creamy coffee that had come to be our daily blessing. Some days were blessed more than others, but we always appreciated the quick rests.
As we continued through the rural suburbs, the road remained quiet, lined with charming homes and sporadic farmlands. The peace was interrupted when Apricots discovered she had lost the bite valve to her water bladder, an inconvenience that made hydration a bit trickier. Thankfully, the Camino's frequent water access points meant this wouldn't be a severe issue. The trail (or rather road) passed several surf shops and learn to surf schools, so we knew that the coast was nearing again.
Our path led us to the Santander ferry terminal, just in time to see the ferry departing. We took this opportunity to rest our feet, a precious thirty minutes of reprieve before the next boat. Psycho took advantage of the break to patch up fresh blisters on his feet, the unfortunate result of hiking in newly acquired sandals. The ferry ride itself was a pleasant interlude, the gentle rocking of the boat a soothing contrast to the steady pace of our hike. Although, Psycho may have experienced a bit of the Ole sea legs, because for the next two hours he felt a little dizzy and light headed. Or perhaps, he hadn't eaten enough before lunch.
Santander welcomed us with the hustle and bustle typical of a city. We paused for a quick coffee, energizing ourselves for the urban trek ahead. One of the highlights of our brief stay in Santander was visiting the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Consulación, a beautiful church that offered a moment of reflection and tranquility amidst our journey.
Leaving Santander, the scenery began to change. The city's outskirts were less captivating, and the kilometers seemed to stretch longer. It was a challenging segment, where the monotonous urban sprawl tested our resolve. Yet, as we moved further, the environment shifted to a more suburban setting, blending farmland with both new and old constructions. The eclectic mix, including vibrant graffiti on concrete walls, told the story of a place in transition, where tradition and modernity coexist.
We sat on a small patch of grass eating lunch next to the light rail train tracks. A few peregrinos passed us while we ate, we briefly spoke with one from Germany that we had dinner with last night, before wishing him "Buen Camino."
A few kilometers later, and a cat was brushing up against Psycho's leg, and then flopping down for belly rubs. We couldn't resist spending a few minutes giving love to the cat (gato). Every small cat we see, we say "gatito" with excitement, but this was the first that let is pet him. Such happiness in the smallest scenes.
Upon finally reaching Santa Cruz de Bezana, our intended destination, we realized with a sinking feeling that we had overshot our mark. We had to backtrack about a kilometer, an unwelcome detour that added to our fatigue. To compound our frustration, we discovered that our lodging was quite a distance from any restaurant or grocery store.
Dinner was a sparse affair: eight Pringles dipped in hummus, a slice of cheese, and four squares of chocolate. It was far from a feast, but it had to suffice. We comforted ourselves with the knowledge that we had oatmeal and nuts for the morning, a small assurance as we prepared for another day on the trail.
Exhaustion weighed heavily on us as we tried to navigate the quirks of the bathroom faucet, a task that seemed disproportionately challenging in our tired state. Yet, despite the day's trials, we were resolute in our preparation for an early rise. Tomorrow promised a new destination and the hope of more enriching experiences.
The Camino Del Norte is more than a physical journey. From the simple generosity of last nights accomodations, dinner, amd breakfast, to the majestic views, each day offers us new challenges and rewards. Tomorrow always beckons us with the promise of the unknown, but today we must rest our feet.
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