Our journey along the Camino Del Norte has been a tapestry of challenging climbs, scenic coastal views, and encounters with fellow pilgrims. The rhythm of our days has been early starts, long walks, and peaceful evenings in small towns, albergues, private residences, hostels, and hotels. As we reached Oviedo, the historical and cultural heart of Asturias, we decided to gift ourselves a rest day, a chance to rejuvenate before embarking on the Camino Primitivo.
Initially, we expexted to sleep in until 6:30 AM, a luxury compared to our usual pre-dawn departures. However, the comfort of our beds and the accumulated fatigue allowed us to sleep until 8 AM. Our feet and legs, weary from the relentless march of previous days, appreciated the extra rest.
Emerging from our room into the crisp morning air of Oviedo, we headed to a nearby coffee shop, a quaint spot with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafting through the air. We indulged in delicious tostadas, perfectly toasted and topped with deliciousness, paired with americanos and creamy oat milk. The simple pleasure of this breakfast was heightened by the knowledge that we had a full day to explore and relax.
With our plates empty and cups nearly drained, we turned our attention to planning the next leg of our journey. Lugo was our next significant destination, nine days away along the Camino Primitivo. We spent the next hour meticulously working through potential accommodations, ensuring we had a clear plan for the days ahead. The excitement of the unknown was balanced by the reassurance of having a structured itinerary. This took a bit of time to work through, so we ordered a second round of americanos while we sat there.
Satisfied with our planning, we set out to explore Oviedo. Our first stop was the Basilica de San Juan El Real, a stunning example of neo-Gothic architecture. The basilica's exterior, with its intricate stone carvings and towering spires, was a testament to the city's rich religious heritage. Inside, the air was cool and filled with the soft glow of stained glass windows. We spent a few minutes in quiet reflection, admiring the beauty and tranquility of the space.
Continuing our walk, we arrived at the Iglesia de San Isadora el Real. Unfortunately, the visiting hours did not align with our arrival, and the doors were closed. Undeterred, we settled at a nearby café for a cafe con leche, watching the world go by in the bustling square. The square was alive with activity, locals and tourists mingling, and the energy of the city was palpable. Tour groups passed through with their guides, and locals sat at cafes.
As we wandered through the streets, the sound of music drew us toward the Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo. Street musicians filled the air with melodies, creating a vibrant and lively atmosphere. Near the cathedral, we stumbled upon what appeared to be a mini renaissance fair or historical reenactment. Performers in period costumes enacted scenes from Oviedo's past, transporting us back in time to an era of knights and royalty. The cathedral itself, a UNESCO World Heritage site, stood as a majestic backdrop to the festivities. Its gothic facade, adorned with sculptures and intricate details, was a marvel to behold.
We made our way back towards our hotel, feeling the pangs of hunger. We decided to revisit the restaurant we dined at with Magnus and Ellen the previous day. The familiarity of the place, coupled with the anticipation of another great meal, was comforting. The food was as delightful as we remembered, and this time, Psycho treated himself to a decadent milkshake, a sweet indulgence that brought a smile.
After lunch, we returned to our hotel, where we spent the afternoon in quiet relaxation. Journaling allowed us to capture the memories and reflections of our journey so far, while video editing provided a creative outlet to document our adventures.
As evening approached, we opted for a simple salad dinner in the hotel’s kitchen space. The light meal was a simple quiet end to a day of indulgence and exploration.
Tomorrow, we will leave the comforts of Oviedo and begin the Camino Primitivo, the oldest and perhaps most challenging route to Santiago de Compostela. The history of this path, first walked by King Alfonso II in the 9th century, added a sense of significance to the journey ahead. The promise of rugged landscapes, ancient paths, and the potential camaraderie of fellow pilgrims fills us with anticipation and excitement.
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