The cool air of O Cádavo/Baleira was still heavy with the night’s lingering chill. At 5 am, we rose from our beds, the early hour a familiar yet profound ritual in our pilgrimage. This morning, however, felt different. There was an anticipation in the air as we prepared thirty minutes earlier than usual, eager to embark on the long, hot journey ahead.
We took a moment to say our goodbyes to Adriana from Colombia and Paloma from Spain. These two fellow pilgrims had become an endearing part of our Camino Primitivo experience, their early starts a silent agreement that we would inevitably pass them by around mid-morning. Our daily leapfrogging had turned into a comforting routine, a testament to the unspoken camaraderie of the Camino.
The path stretched ahead, bathed in the gentle hues of the early morning sky. The first leg of our journey took us to Castroverde, a small town that offered a welcoming respite in the form of a small café. Here, we savored a hot coffee, the warmth spreading through our fingers and awakening our senses as we planned our day.
Continuing onward, the landscape began to shift, revealing the serene beauty of Galicia’s countryside. Suddenly, we spotted two large birds in a field. At first, they seemed out of place, but a kilometer later, we stumbled upon a small, mist-covered lake that seemed like a hidden gem in the landscape. The delicate fog clung to the water's surface, casting an ethereal glow that made the sight of the birds feel perfectly natural.
As we walked, we stumbled upon what can only be described as an oasis. Nestled along the path, this unexpected haven was managed by former pilgrims who had clearly understood the needs of weary travelers. The seating area, constructed from stacked crate benches and sheltered by a straw-thatched structure, offered shade and a respite from the relentless sun. Fresh fruit and coffee were available on a donation-only basis, a gesture of pure goodwill that rejuvenated our spirits.
Refreshed, we set out for the final stretch of our hike, bracing ourselves for what we knew would be the most challenging part of the day. The next three and a quarter hours were a relentless grind, pushing our endurance as we traversed the varied terrain. Our route alternated between the highway, peaceful farmlands, and quaint villages. In one such village, we were delighted to witness a shepherd guiding a flock of twenty sheep through the town. The sight, almost biblical in its simplicity, filled us with a childlike wonder and delight.
The kilometers seemed to stretch endlessly, but soon enough, the city of Lugo appeared on the horizon. As we approached, a significant milestone awaited us: the 100km marker, indicating that we were now only 100 kilometers from our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. The marker felt like a hard-earned badge of honor, a tangible reminder of how far we had come and how close we were to achieving our goal.
Entering Lugo, the ancient Roman walls that encircle the city center came into view. These formidable fortifications, dating back to the 3rd century, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and a testament to the city’s rich historical tapestry.
Navigating the city, we followed the road to our hotel. However, finding our accommodation proved more challenging than anticipated. The hotel’s location seemed to be elusive, sending us on a small adventure through the labyrinthine streets of Lugo. Eventually, after a thorough examination of the internet, we managed to pinpoint the location and made our way there, the sense of relief palpable as we finally checked in.
The first order of business was a hot shower, washing away the grime and fatigue of the day’s journey. Revitalized, we ventured out in search of food, craving something hearty and satisfying. We found a small restaurant serving burgers, and they turned out to be amazingly delicious, a perfect reward for our efforts.
On our way back to the hotel, we encountered a fellow traveler who looked as lost as we had been earlier. He was searching for the same hotel, and we were happy to guide him, offering a friendly face and a helping hand. It felt good to pay forward the kindness we had received throughout our journey.
The remainder of the day passed in a peaceful blur. We spent the hours journaling and editing videos, capturing the essence of our experiences and preserving the memories of our pilgrimage. As the sun set and the city quieted down, we felt a deep sense of contentment and fulfillment.
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