We awoke with the first light filtering through the windows of our cozy rural hotel in El Cuito. The promise we had made to ourselves the previous night, to sleep in until 6:30 AM, was a luxurious indulgence by our standards. Slowly, we began our morning routine, savoring each moment of preparation for the day ahead. It would be a shorter one, and with company. However, rain was in the forecast. The warm shower was a welcome comfort, and the methodical packing of our backpacks is always meditative (until you leave the room and wonder if you forgot anything).
Breakfast at the hotel was a true delight, especially the frixuelos. These local delicacies, akin to fry bread, offered a taste of Asturian tradition. The crisp edges and soft, warm centers were a delicious blend of textures and flavors, providing energy for the day’s hike, or at least the coffee did.
Retracing our steps from the previous evening, we walked the portion of the trail that had led us astray to last night’s accommodations. The morning air was fresh and cool, and the sounds of our footsteps was that rhythm to distant bird calls. The path led us to Pola de Siero, a medium sized town in Asturias. Here, at a café, we reunited with Ellen and Magnus from Denmark. They had patiently waited for us, their cheering faces welcoming us in. The joy of reuniting erased the dread of rain walking, as we set off together.
The walk today was a blend of urban landscapes and smaller villages, a stark contrast to the more scenic portions of the Camino we had previously traversed. We meandered through suburban neighborhoods. In one small village, a wall caught our eye. Boldly spray-painted in black letters was the phrase, "Sorry mom, I am a vandal." The unexpected humor of it brought a shared chuckle among us. Sadly, we didn't get a picture of the wit.
As we approached the outskirts of Oviedo, the scenery became increasingly urban. The transition from the quiet villages to the bustling suburbs was marked by a rise in traffic noise and the density of buildings. We navigated through the lengthy dreary outskirts of city streets, moving ever closer to the heart of Oviedo. The blend of modern and historical architecture was fascinating, and we paused occasionally to admire the grandeur of old churches and municipal buildings, or to rest our damp tired feet.
Despite the urban surroundings, the company of Ellen and Magnus made the kilometers pass swiftly. We filled the hours with animated conversation, sharing stories from our previous journeys and discussing the various Camino routes we had experienced. Our discussions ranged from light-hearted topics like books, school, and work to deeper conversations on governmental policies.
Upon reaching the urban center of Oviedo, we reluctantly parted ways, each heading to our respective accommodations. However, the fates conspired to reunite us sooner than expected. None of us could access our lodgings for another two hours, so we decided to make the most of the time by indulging in a meal together. We found a nearby restaurant, and soon we were tucking into delicious, hearty burgers, the perfect reward for a long day’s walk. We continued our conversations, savoring each bite and each moment.
Ellen and Magnus will continue their journey tomorrow, while we have planned a well-deserved rest day. Their schedule was tighter, and it was likely this would be our last meeting. We made tentative plans to reunite in Santiago if our paths crossed again. The thought of possibly sharing another meal with them in Santiago brought a sense of anticipation and a bittersweet feeling of farewell. Something that has always interested me is the quickness one finds friendship on trail experiences, and the abruptness of saying goodbye.
Reflecting on our journey so far, we realized we have walked 305 miles (just short of 500 kilometers). With about 310 kilometers to Santiago remaining, the end of our pilgrimage was in sight.
The Camino del Norte, one of the lesser-traveled routes of the Camino de Santiago, is renowned for its rugged beauty and historical significance. Stretching along the northern coast of Spain, it offers pilgrims stunning coastal views and a rich tapestry of cultural and historical landmarks. Oviedo, the city where we ended today's journey, holds a special place in the history of the Camino. It was from here that King Alfonso II the Chaste began his pilgrimage to Santiago in the 9th century, making him one of the first documented pilgrims to the shrine of Saint James.
As such Oviedo is considered the official start of the Camino Primitivo. This coming leg will be more trail, fewer accomodations, higher elevations, and likely a quieter experience for the next nine to ten days. After that we will intersect the Camino Frances which is the most traveled Camino and we will probably be a walking Conga line.
As we settled into our accommodations this evening, the bustling sounds of Oviedo in the background, we reflected on the day's journey and the miles we had covered. The companionship of Ellen and Magnus had made the urban walk more enjoyable, transforming what could have been a monotonous day into one filled with laughter and shared experiences.
We feel a mix of excitement and nervous anticipation for the remaining distance to Santiago.
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