Saturday, July 6, 2024

Day 14: Comillas rest day

The morning in Comillas arrived with rain, nudging us gently from the depths of a well-deserved sleep. We reluctantly left the warmth of our beds, our bodies still heavy with the fatigue of previous days' hikes. Slowly, we shuffled downstairs, drawn by the inviting promise of a full breakfast. 

The hotel dining room greeted us with a cornucopia of morning delights, far surpassing the typical fare we had grown accustomed to. Toast and yogurt stood proudly alongside an array of eggs and bacon. There was ham and cheese in abundance, apples and oranges that looked freshly plucked from an orchard, and pastries that promised a sweet start to the day. Coffee, rich and steaming, was the final touch that completed our morning feast. We dined happily, savoring each bite, yearning to stay longer, but knowing that laundromats get busy later in the day.
With satisfied bellies, we set off towards the laundromat, our path leading us through the charming streets of Comillas. Our first landmark was the University of Comillas, a striking example of modernist architecture. Founded in 1890 by the Jesuits, this institution had a storied past, evolving from a seminary to a prestigious university. Its grand façade was viewed from afar through misty rain. There was no drive to linger and explore, as we were not dressed for rain. 
Continuing our walk, we came across the Comillas Cemetery, a place that combined melancholy with splendor. Nestled on a hill overlooking the sea, the cemetery was another beckoning sight with its intricate sculptures and the famous "Ángel Exterminador" (Exterminating Angel) statue by Josep Llimona. This sculpture, with its wings spread wide, seemed to guard the resting souls. The artistry and the serene location made the cemetery a beckoning stop on our morning stroll. Rain and still tired feet stopped us from exploring. 
We descended from the cemetery towards the beach, where the usual rhythmic sound of waves was masked by the sounds of people and rain and cars driving on wet pavement. The beach was nearly deserted, the overcast sky and drizzle deterring visitors. Yet, the solitude added to its charm, and we spent a moment there.

Finally, we reached the laundromat, a humble yet essential destination. The small space was bustling with activity; three machines were in use, and six people were there, turning the simple task of doing laundry into a prolonged affair. As we waited, we amused ourselves with chewing gum from a gumball machine, the small burst of flavor a minor distraction from the monotony of the chore.

Eventually, we sought refuge from the rain in a nearby café, indulging in cups of café con leche. The warmth of the coffee shop, combined with the comforting clink of cups and the murmur of conversation, provided a cozy escape from the dreary weather outside. Many people sought refuge right after we arrived. Aside from our first day on the Camino del Norte, the rain had only graced us during our breaks in Bilbao and now Comillas.
As the rain began to ease, we climbed a path that took us away from the coastline towards a grocery store. Our morning's exertions had kindled a hearty appetite, and we eagerly anticipated lunch. The grocery store visit was quick, our thoughts firmly fixed on the promise of lunch. When we sat down to eat, the combination of pizza and the crisp carbonated beverage was comforting. The 80's music playing in the background added a nostalgic touch, and Psycho took advantage of the relaxed atmosphere to catch up on journaling, with Apricots singing occasionally to the tunes.
After our meal, we retraced our steps to the hotel, laden with groceries and the prospect of an afternoon nap. The comfort of our room beckoned, and we succumbed to a long, restorative sleep. When we awoke, the evening had settled in, and we treated ourselves to a simple yet delicious dinner of salad and then wine on the balcony. 

As we reflected on our restful day, our feet, grateful for the respite, prepared for the journey ahead. Tomorrow, we will leave Comillas and continue our hike towards Colombres. Our path will take us from Cantabria into Asturias, promising new landscapes and adventures. 

The Camino del Norte has already offered us so much—stunning views, historic landmarks, and the simple joys of shared meals and quiet moments. 

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