The morning air was crisp as we stirred awake, a few minutes before the silent vibration of the alarm on our wrists signaled the start of another day on the Camino Primitivo. The quiet serenity of the early hour was broken only by the soft rustle of our sleeping sheets and the careful, deliberate movements as we gathered our gear. Despite our efforts to make a silent exit, the pressure change from the closing door caused it to slam, likely stirring our fellow pilgrims. We winced at the thought of being the ones they would gripe about later.
Outside, the darkness still enveloped the village of Berducedo, and we relied on the dim beams of our headlamps to illuminate our makeshift breakfast. Tortillas, smeared generously with peanut butter and jelly, made for a simple yet satisfying meal. The air was cool as we finished packing the last of our belongings, eager to hit the trail by 6 AM.
The path from Berducedo to La Mesa stretched out before us, the first portion a paved road bathed in the soft glow of our headlamps. As dawn broke, the sky gradually shifted from deep navy to shades of pink and orange, revealing the landscape around us. Across the valley, we spotted fifteen wind turbines standing silently atop the first hill we would climb. Their immense size and graceful blades sat unmoving in the early morning light.
The climb out of La Mesa was steep, but the challenge was tempered by the breathtaking beauty of the surroundings. As we ascended, the sun made its grand entrance, casting long shadows and igniting the sky with a golden hue. We passed within a hundred yards of the towering wind turbines, now bathed in sunlight. These giants were a testament to a commitment to renewable energy, harnessing the relentless winds that swept across these hills to provide power for the region.
From the crest of the hill, we were rewarded with a stunning view down to the Embalse de Salime, a vast reservoir created by the damming of the Navia River. Below us, the valley was blanketed in a slow rolling sea of clouds, their tops kissed by the morning sun. The descent into this ethereal landscape was steep and challenging, but the beauty of the cloud-covered valley below kept our spirits high.
As we descended, the trail seemed to plunge us directly into the clouds, shrouding us in a cool, misty embrace. The steepness of the path was mitigated by the constant wonder at the scenery around us. When we finally emerged from the cloud cover, the reservoir stretched out before us, its still waters reflecting the clouds above. Crossing the dam, built in the 1950s, we began a steady climb, grateful for the cloud cover that shielded us from the sun’s intensity.
Two kilometers into the climb, we took a brief respite at a small café, savoring the warmth of fresh coffee. The break was a welcome pause, allowing us to recharge before the final push to Grandas de Salime. The last six kilometers of the hike felt like a journey through a familiar, enchanted forest. The road wound alongside the reservoir, flanked by pine trees, rocky outcroppings, and an underbrush thick with ferns and thorny blackberries. The air was fragrant with the scent of pine and earth, and the rhythmic crunch of our boots on the trail provided a soothing soundtrack.
We left the road to follow a narrow, adjacent trail for the last hour, the path leading us through dense woods. The forest seemed alive with the sounds of birds and the rustle of small creatures in the underbrush. By the time we reached Grandas de Salime, our energy levels were still high, and we felt that a short rest for our feet would enable a longer day.
Grandas de Salime greeted us with the warmth of a small town with its stone buildings and narrow streets echoing our familiar town experiences on the Camino. We considered pushing on to the next town, but upon learning there was only one bed available, we concluded that it wad best to stay. As we waited for the albergue to open, more hikers trickled in, and by opening hour, about ten pilgrims were gathered, eager to shed the sweat and dirt of the day.
Once showered and refreshed, we ventured to a local restaurant, indulging in hearty food and a glass of vermouth. The remainder of our time in Grandas de Salime was spent in quiet reflection and preparation for the next leg of our journey. Tomorrow, we would cross from the community of Asturias into Galicia, the final region of our pilgrimage.
Walking through these landscapes, we are reminded of the interplay between nature and human ingenuity. The wind turbines we had passed in the morning stand for a greener future. Alongside the wind turbines, the hydroelectric power generated by dams like the one at Embalse de Salime further underscores Spain's commitment to sustainable energy. Now, if we can convince them to stop using so many gasoline fueled weed wackers, a sound which is probably the third most common sound on the trail: birds, cowbells, and weed wackers.
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