We awoke in Castro Urdiales with the primary goal of shedding some weight from our packs. The oficina de correos was scheduled to open at 8:30 AM, so we spent the early morning hours at a nearby café, sipping café con leche. The aroma of the coffee with the crisp morning air, was a delightful prelude to our day’s journey. Just as we were finishing our drinks, Emile and Joe joined us. The post office opened promptly, and we eagerly sent off 5kg of gear to our hotel in Santiago, feeling lighter and ready to hit the trail.
The Camino Del Norte beckoned as we started with a small climb out of Castro Urdiales. An albergue hostess, friendly and warm, offered us coffee for the road. Though tempting, we graciously passed, preferring to munch on grapes as we walked along the hillside. The scenery was a blend of old stone houses interspersed with modern buildings, each offering its own story.
Our path led us under a highway, transitioning into the countryside where small farm plots dotted the landscape. We skirted around an ancient stone-walled cemetery, its weathered gravestones standing silent. Soon, we found ourselves enveloped by a beautiful forest. The trees were gnarly and twisted, their trunks bending to form a natural canopy that sheltered us from the light mist that had begun to fall. It was a serene moment, the forest alive with the whispers of nature.
Emerging from the woods, we were greeted by the stunning sight of the Atlantic Ocean. The trail transformed into a cliff walk, the waves crashing below providing a rhythmic soundtrack. We followed this coastal path to Islares, where we paused for another café con leche, savoring the warmth of the beverage.
Changing into shoes more suited for a climb, we continued along the highway to El Pontarron. Here, we took a brief respite to drink some electrolytes and prepare for the next leg of our journey. Psycho had discovered an alternate side trail, promising a scenic hike through the forest and along a cliff. Intrigued, we decided to follow this option.
The side trail did not disappoint. The forest was lush and vibrant, the air fresh with the scent if earth. As we approached a steeper section of the trail, an old man appeared. He spoke only Spanish, his words urgent and insistent: “Muy, muy peligroso.” The rain had made the cliffside path dangerously slick. Despite the beauty he described – a place where he had sat, drunk two beers, and watched an eagle up close – the danger was too great. His warning was clear and heartfelt.
After a quick discussion, we decided to heed his advice and turn back. It was a tough decision, especially having already covered several miles, but safety had to come first. Retracing our steps, we made our way back to El Pontarron. From there, we opted to take a bus over the hill. The official route was no longer feasible within our time constraints, and we needed to reach Laredo in time for our reservations.
The bus ride was a brief respite, giving us a chance to rest and reflect on the day's events. Though we missed some of the trail’s stunning views, we were grateful for the old man’s timely warning. It’s always wise to trust local knowledge, especially when it comes to safety.
In total, we hiked about one mile less than originally planned. The detour was a minor setback, and the camaraderie of the group kept our spirits high. Arriving in Laredo, Apricots and Psycho checked into their hotel. The day had been long and eventful, but there was still one more task to complete: grocery shopping. Stocked up on provisions, we finally called it a night.
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