We woke at our fairly typical 5:30 AM time in the rectory in Priesca. The air was cool, hinting at the promise of a warm day ahead. Dressing quietly to not disturb the other pilgrims still asleep, we made our way downstairs for a quiet breakfast. The simplicity of bread, jam, and yogurt was common for the journey we were on.
By 6:00 AM, we were on the trail, beginning the 10-kilometer descent to Villaviciosa. The morning was alive with the songs of countless birds, their melodies weaving through the air.. We paused occasionally to look out over the valleys, shrouded in a delicate veil of morning fog. There always is something magical about these early hours. The world is waking up around us as we welcome the start of another hiking day on the Camino.
The trail was a blend of experiences, alternating between narrow paved farm roads that meandered through pastures and dirt and gravel paths winding through forested canopies. Ferns brushed against our legs, and the scent of eucalyptus filled the air, a natural perfume that is common on thd Del Norte. As the morning sun rose higher, it burned off most of the clouds, leaving just a hint of fog lingering in some of the valleys, a reminder of the day’s early magic.
Walking adjacent to the highway, the bird songs battled with the sounds of moving cars, creating a peculiar symphony that marked our approach to Villaviciosa. By the time we reached the town, we were ready for a break. The aroma of freshly baked pastries drew us in, and we savored the delicious and inexpensive treats the Colón Confiteria offered. Even their basic glazed donut was amazing. Villaviciosa held us captive longer than anticipated. We restocked our groceries and ibuprofen, and couldn’t resist the lure of a second coffee, rich and strong, to fuel the next leg of our journey.
Reluctantly, we left Villaviciosa behind and walked a few kilometers to Casquita. Here, we purchased Camino shells at a small chapel, a traditional symbol of the pilgrimage. Our path diverged from the Camino del Norte as we took a side route up into the mountains, looking to join the Camino Primitivo in Oviedo. Before leaving, we had a quick, amusing conversation with some sheep and goats, their bleats and baas a comical send-off. Apricots tries to fees them carrots but they seemed uninterested.
Our detour took us to Valdedios, a church built in the 9th century, a stunning example of pre-Romanesque architecture. Though the church was behind a fenced region, and we were too tired and too cheap to pay for a tour, we found solace in the courtyard of the monastery. Eating the carrots the goats had rejected and a banana, we rested and absorbed the serene atmosphere. The name Valdedios, meaning "Valley of God," felt particularly apt in that peaceful moment, as we were about to climb a steep ascent out of the valley.
The detour added extra mileage and a steep climb back to the main route, but we powered up the hill like seasoned hikers. The high humidity of the day left us drenched in sweat, but we were energized by the sense of accomplishment and the beauty of the landscape around us. Yesterday Psycho was low on energy, and today Apricots was low on energy. We make a good team supporting each other when needed.
Our final destination for the day brought an unwelcome surprise: bed bugs. Before we had even settled in, we discovered the tiny pests and panic left the albergue. Over an amazing meal at the bar across the street, rich with local flavors and hearty portions, we discussed our options and decided to tack on an additional eight kilometers to another establishment.
Setting off again, the sun was high, and the heat radiated from the paved road. Fortunately, clouds and a gentle breeze soon offered some relief, and the trail turned to gravel roads and forested paths once more. The tranquility of the woods and the soft crunch of gravel underfoot were a welcome change from the asphalt.
As we approached the end of our long day, the trail markers and our navigation app seemed to disagree, leading to some confusion. After a brief discussion, we settled on a course of action that seemed most likely to get us to our accommodations. However, the address caused further confusion, and we wound up doing an extra one to two miles, walking a big, frustrating circle.
By the time we finally reached our new lodging, we were exhausted and a bit angry at ourselves for the navigational mishaps. But as we settled on the terrace with a cold beer, the frustrations of the day began to melt away. We vowed to enjoy the moment and agreed to sleep in tomorrow morning, giving our bodies and minds a well-deserved rest.
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