Day 32: The 100 Km Peregrino

The alarm broke the silence of the early morning, a harsh reminder that the Camino waits for no one. Psycho, reluctant to leave the comfort of sleep, groaned, wishing for a few more precious minutes of rest. The memory of yesterday’s searing heat loomed large, pushing us to get an early start. The weather had changed overnight, with clouds rolling in to trap the heat, creating a blanket that kept the temperature higher than we’d hoped but shielding us from the relentless sun for most of the hiking day.

Stepping out of Lugo, the ancient Roman walls that once guarded this storied city faded behind us. Lugo, founded in 13 BCE by Lucus Augusti, is a place where history and pilgrimage intertwine. Today was a milestone; we had entered the final 100 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela, a significant marker for pilgrims. This proximity to our destination meant more foot traffic, yet our early weekday departure ensured a peaceful path. Those we did encounter were either buzzing with the fresh excitement of a new journey or visibly struggling with the early challenges of the trail.

The Camino Primitivo, known for its rustic beauty, greeted us with familiar scenery. The path meandered through verdant farmland and lush, moss-covered forests. The air was punctuated by the soothing scent of eucalyptus, a welcome contrast to the occasional, pungent whiff of pastureland. Each village we passed seemed to be in a world of its own, untouched by time, where the rhythm of life remained unchanged by the passage of countless pilgrims.

Two hours into our hike, we stumbled upon a converted garage, now serving as a snack shack. It was a modest setup: two vending machines, a few small tables, a microwave, and a clean well equiped bathroom. This impromptu pit stop was a welcome break, offering a chance to rest and refuel.

Four hours into our journey, we arrived at an isolated café, seemingly reliant on the steady stream of peregrinos and a handful of loyal locals. Here, we indulged in a simple yet satisfying meal of egg and tuna bocadillo accompanied by another coffee. The solitude of the café hinted at its dependence on the pilgrimage, a lifeline in a remote landscape.

Recharged, we set off on the final leg of our day’s hike, 6.5 kilometers ahead. As the trail twisted and turned, we found a vending machine stocked with cold sodas. The cool drink was a fleeting pleasure as we faced a steep climb immediately after. The climb was taxing, making it hard to savor our sodas, but reaching the top offered a refreshing reward in the form of a mildly cool drink.

The last kilometers slipped away under our feet as we approached our destination: a pilgrims-only albergue in Ferreira. The albergue, nestled in the quiet of the countryside, was a sanctuary for weary travelers. We sat outside, petting a friendly cat and sipping a rejuvenating beverage, soaking in the tranquility before the routine of checking in, showering, and hand washing clothes began.

As evening fell, we gathered for dinner with fellow hikers from Italy, Hungary, and Slovakia. It was their first Camino as well, and we shared stories of our travels, our observations on the languages we encountered, and the universal experiences of the Camino. The conversation flowed easily, a blend of shared hardships and the joy of discovery, before we retired to our bunks, ready to prepare for another day on this ancient path.