Monday, July 29, 2024

Day 36: Santiago Rest Day

As the night stretched into its late hours, the jubilant clamor of the weekend's festivities echoed through the cobblestone streets outside our pension in Santiago de Compostela. Revelers' laughter and song lingered in the air until the first hints of dawn finally ushered in a semblance of silence. By 4 a.m., the town's vibrant spirit had quieted, allowing us a few precious hours of sleep before our day began at 7 a.m.

We began our day leisurely, embracing the slower pace of a rest day. A short walk led us to a charming café specializing in breakfast. Here, we savored tostadas, scrambled eggs, and a decadent waffle smothered in Nutella, a small indulgence after the many miles we had trekked. The streets were still, the city resting in the afterglow of the previous night's revelry, as we returned to our pension to plan our day.
Our agenda was blissfully sparse, having managed to do our laundry the day before. With the freedom of an entire day to explore Santiago, we decided to set out early to avoid the sweltering heat forecasted. We meandered through the serene streets, making our way back to the plaza in front of the magnificent Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. This time, we took a different route, discovering new nooks and crannies of the ancient city.
As we approached the cathedral, the sound of joyous cheers grew louder. A group of barefoot walkers, likely students from a Catholic school, ran past us into the square, their excitement palpable. Two nuns followed closely, their smiles beaming with pride and joy. It was a heartwarming reminder of the diverse experiences and shared joy the Camino de Santiago brings to its pilgrims.
Finding a shaded spot in the plaza, we sat down to observe the scenes unfolding around us. Pilgrims from all corners of the world celebrated the culmination of their arduous journey, the air thick with a mixture of relief, pride, and elation. As we watched, a wave of emotions washed over us, the weight of our own accomplishment settling in. Tears hinted at us as we reflected on the miles we had walked and the challenges we met.
Leaving the plaza, we decided to get ourselves delightfully lost in the labyrinthine streets of Santiago's old town. We wandered through narrow alleys, each turn revealing a new hidden gem. The churches we stumbled upon were beautiful in their own right, though we referred to them as "Bridesmaids," with the Cathedral of Santiago standing as the resplendent bride.
As the day grew warmer, we retreated to our room, seeking refuge from the oppressive heat. Our plans to visit the cathedral would wait until we passed through Santiago again after completing the Camino Finisterre. Resting in the semi-cool comfort of our pension, we reflected on the journey ahead and the quiet trails that awaited us.

In the late afternoon, we met up with Magnus and Ellen, fellow hikers from Copenhagen. Over a delightful dinner, we exchanged stories of our adventures. They had arrived in Santiago a few days before us, choosing to remain in the city rather than continue to Finisterre. Their stay was made even more memorable when Magnus proposed to Ellen in the plaza on St. James' Day. The moment was captured by reporters, adding a touch of serendipity to their Camino story.
In our explorations and conversations, we had forgotten to collect stamps for our Camino credentials, the cherished artifacts of our journey. Each day, we had diligently gathered unique stamps to mark our progress, but Santiago, in its grandeur, had left us momentarily distracted. 

We also bypassed the process of obtaining our official certificate of completion. The office would only recognize our Primitivo route, disregarding the kilometers we had trekked on the Norte. A certificate stating we had completed 310 kilometers seemed insufficient for the over 800 kilometers we knew we had walked. In the end, our memories and experiences would serve as our true certification.

As night fell, we prepared for the final leg of our pilgrimage. The Camino Finisterre awaited us, a route chosen by only ten percent of pilgrims after reaching Santiago. It promised the solitude and serenity we craved after the bustling city. We planned to start early, setting off by 5 a.m. to embrace the tranquility of the dawn and the quiet trails that lay ahead.

With the anticipation of new paths and the reflections of past miles, we now drift to sleep... or the closest thing to it in this heat.

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