Monday, July 8, 2024

Day 16: Coasting to Glamping

The morning started early, just like many before it, with the sound of the alarm clock ringing through the stillness at 5:15 AM. We groggily rose from our beds, shaking off the remnants of sleep, and Psycho took to the shower. The water helped to wake him up, washing away any lingering fatigue. By 5:45 AM, we were ready to embark on the day's adventure.

We left our hotel in Colombres, a quaint town known for its indiano architecture—grand houses built by emigrants returning from the Americas with newfound wealth. The town was still cloaked in darkness as we navigated our way down a narrow path, the light from our cellphone flashlights casting light on the ground. Sadly, some snails were lost in the process. The air was crisp, and the silence was only broken by our footsteps and the occasional rustling of leaves.

About 1.5 miles into our journey, we stumbled upon a gas station (well Apricots knew about it) that was much more than just a place to refuel. This gas station was an oasis for travelers, offering a variety of breakfast options and freshly brewed coffee. We marveled at the unexpected charm of the place, its warm lights inviting us in from the cold. We sat down and enjoyed our breakfast, savoring the rich aroma of coffee and the delicious sandwich that rejuvenated our spirits. We would have bought the 12 inch palmera, but carting it around seemed impractical. Sad Psycho.
With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off once more. This time, we chose the scenic route, a slightly longer but far more rewarding trail that hugged the coastline. The path was not paved, which added a sense of adventure to our hike, and relief to our feet. At one point, we even had to crawl under an electric fence, but the effort was worth it. The rolling grassy landscape was littered with rocks and offered breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. The sound of waves crashing against the cliffs filled the air, creating a symphony of nature that accompanied our steps. Ocean waves, birds, and cowbell.
Our trail led us to a precarious natural rock bridge, where we had to cross over waves crashing 50 feet below. The sight was both awe-inspiring and a little unsettling, but we managed to make it across safely, our hearts pounding with a mix of fear and exhilaration.
A few miles later, we arrived in the small town of Pendueles. The town was peaceful, with narrow streets and charming houses. We found a cozy café and stopped for a croissant and another cup of coffee. As we sat there, the heat of the day started to creep in, making us appreciate the shade and the cool breeze. The bar keep had a dog that was quite friendly, even though we offered him no snacks.

The path from Pendueles took us through rolling hills and winding gravel roads, offering us continuous coastal views. To the south, rocky-topped hillsides framed the landscape, creating a stunning contrast with the blue expanse of the ocean to the north. The trail bobbed up and down, each crest revealing a new perspective of the coastal scenery.
Our next stop was at the Bufones de Arenillas, a natural phenomenon where holes in the ground produce eerie sounds like the breathing of a dragon. During high tide and heavy seas, the water pressure forces jets of water up to 40 meters into the air. Although we did not witness the water jets, the sound alone was enough to send shivers down our spines. Earth was breathing.

As we continued on towards Llanes, the trail meandered through stands of eucalyptus trees. The tall trees provided much-needed shade, and their distinct scent added a refreshing touch to the air. Occasionally, the trees would part, offering glimpses of the ocean before pulling away again.
We arrived in the picturesque village of Andrín, where we took a break and enjoyed a cold beverage. After our brief rest, we tackled a small climb over a hill that rewarded us with stunning views of the ocean.
Descending into Llanes, we headed straight for the first supermarket we found to quench our thirst with more cold drinks. Llanes is a town rich in history, its narrow streets lined with medieval buildings and vibrant murals. We made our way to the Church of Santa Maria, a Gothic-style church dating back to the 13th century. Unfortunately, like many before it, the doors were closed, and we could only admire its exterior.
Our final stretch took us from Llanes to Poó de Llanes, our destination for the day. The road led us through serene landscapes, the sound of cowbells growing louder as we approached. We reached our glamping site, a unique experience that combined the beauty of nature with the comforts of modern living. Our canvas tent was perched on a wooden platform, equipped with electricity, WiFi, and nearby showers. 
Despite the lack of solid food options, we managed with the little food we had brought along. The peaceful ambiance, the chirping of birds, and the distant ring of cowbells made for a perfect end to a long warm day.

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