Day 22: Ten by Ten

Our day began in the quiet of early morning. We sat down to a simple breakfast: tortillas smeared with peanut butter and jelly, accompanied by juicy cherry tomatoes and a refreshing glass of orange juice. It wasn’t much, but it was enough to fuel our journey on the Camino.

At 6:20 a.m., we stepped out into the still-dark streets of Oviedo. The city, known for its rich history and as a starting point for the Camino Primitivo, was cloaked in a serene silence, save for a few late-night revelers lingering from the previous evening. Their presence was mildly discomforting as we navigated through the distressed side of town, where the streets were eerily dark, and the businesses were closed and tagged with graffiti. One man, mumbling to himself, followed us for about a mile, adding a slight edge of unease to our early trek.

As we left Oviedo behind, the first light of day began to break through the clouds. We soon encountered our first fellow pilgrims, the Primitivo Peregrinos. Exchanging cheerful "Buen Camino" wishes, we moved past at a different pace. However, as the sky began to drizzle, we stopped to don our ponchos. It was then that one of the passing pilgrims kindly helped Psycho pull his poncho over his pack – a small, yet significant act of kindness shared with just a few words.

Ironically, the rain ceased almost immediately after we had suited up, and we continued our walk in the cool morning air. The trail led us through a series of small, tranquil towns, each quieter than the last. The only sounds accompanying us were the gentle clanging of cowbells and the sweet songs of birds. The path varied, at times narrowing under a thick canopy of trees, at other times opening into wide fields bordered by ancient stone walls. 

As the morning wore on, our desire for a warm cup of coffee grew stronger. We had walked nearly eleven miles before finally stumbling upon a small town with an open café. The short break was enjoyable, and the coffee revitalized our spirits, but we knew we couldn’t linger for long. Our accommodations in Grado were first come, first serve, and we wanted to secure our spots.

With renewed energy, we continued on the final leg of our journey, which ran largely alongside the Rio Nalón. This was the largest river we had encountered on our walk, its waters adding a serene beauty to our path. The river's presence was a calming. We stopped to pet a few donkeys along the way, as well as a few friendly dogs.

Our last town before Grado was Peñaflor. We passed through quickly, eager to reach our destination. The final stretch was a flat stroll through open countryside, a change from the earlier, mildly more challenging terrains. 

Arriving in Grado, we found ourselves to be the first pilgrims at the hostel. To our confusion, the sign at the albergue read "Hostel Full," but it also said "No Reservations." After some muddled exchanges in both English and Spanish, we concluded that there was indeed room, but we had to wait until 3 p.m. before we could check in. We settled outside the albergue, taking the opportunity to rest after our trek. We laid in the shade on the cold dirty concrete.

Once inside, we each decompressed in our own way. Apricots took a well-deserved nap while Psycho busied himself with journaling, capturing the details of the day's journey. As late afternoon turned to evening, we ventured out to find food for the next day and a light dinner for the night. Unfortunately, the grocery stores were closed, forcing us to rely on the limited offerings of a nearby gas station. Despite the challenge, we managed to make do with ramen noodles, cheese, and cookies. It wasn’t gourmet, but it was enough to keep us going. Thankfully, the albergue provides breakfast, giving us one less thing to worry about in the morning.