As the sun began to rise over Santillana del Mar, a picturesque medieval town frozen in time, we woke at the convent where we had spent the night. Today was a shorter day planned for our hike on the Camino Del Norte, allowing us the luxury of an extra hour of sleep. Breakfast was scheduled for 7 a.m., and the convent provided a simple yet satisfying meal: fresh bread, coffee, orange juice, and the unexpected highlight—a boiled egg. Among our fellow peregrinos, the protein boost from the egg was a topic of enthusiastic conversation. We pondered ways to fight over the one uneaten egg at the table, or to divide it evenly.
Santillana del Mar, with its cobbled streets and stone buildings dating back to the 12th century, is often referred to as "the town of three lies" since it is neither holy (santa), flat (llana), nor by the sea (del mar). However, its charm lies in its well-preserved history and architecture, offering a glimpse into the past. As we left the town, we embarked on a climb out of the historic center and soon entered the rolling farmland that typifies this region of northern Spain in the community of Cantabria.
The landscape changed to rocky, grassy hillsides dotted with grazing cattle. The morning light filtered through the trees, casting dappled sunlight on our path. The serene beauty of the countryside enveloped us, providing a peaceful start to our day. As we looked up and down the trail, we could see a large group of peregrinos who had left town around the same time, their colorful attire forming a moving tapestry against the green backdrop. Gradually, they spread out across the kilometers, and soon we found ourselves in a quieter stretch of the path, especially after our first café break.
Our first stop was at a quaint café where we enjoyed a Napolitana de Chocolate and a café con leche. This brief respite was perfect for savoring the local flavors and resting our legs. Afterward, we continued our journey, climbing a hill past fields of corn until we reached the Iglesia de San Pedro. This church, perched atop a hill like many we had seen before, offered a serene spot to catch our breath, but we had just rested, so we ambled on our way after a few pictures.
The trail led us through a small town with tall stone walls, some exceeding seven feet in height. These walls, remnants of an era when they perhaps provided protection, added a sense of historical depth to our hike. In one such sparsely populated area, we stopped to refill our water bottles at the Iglesia de San Martín, a simple yet beautiful church that stood as a testament to the enduring faith of the region's inhabitants.
By mid-morning, the heat began to intensify. Our second town break was brief, limited to hydrating beverages as we sought to keep cool. We had planned an alternate route out of this town that would take us past El Monumento a los Peregrinos, a monument dedicated to pilgrims. This detour proved to be a refreshing change of scenery, leading us through a wooded path on an old gravel road. The shade provided by large trees along a quiet, winding road helped keep the heat at bay as we descended towards the final town stop of the day.
We had hoped to find groceries or a proper lunch in the next town, but our expectations were unmet. Instead, we made do with fritos and an ice cream sandwich from the local tavern. The barkeep's kind gesture of offering us a plate with two slices of salami and a small wedge of cheese was a welcome surprise and provided just enough sustenance to fuel our final push to Comillas.
Comillas, while not as ancient as Santillana del Mar, is a town rich in history and vibrant with tourist attractions. The town is known for its impressive architecture, including the Palacio de Sobrellano and El Capricho, a villa designed by Antoni Gaudí. We checked into a comfortable hotel, feeling both stinky and tired from the day's exertions.
After showering and lounging, we ventured out for dinner at a local café. The meal was a delightful culmination of the day's journey: a cod omelet, a fresh salad, and fried prawns. Later, we met up with Joe and Emilie for ice cream. Sitting on a bench, we chatted and shared stories, knowing that today would be our last hike together. Joe and Emilie were heading to Bilbao the next day and then back to Sweden. Not everyone has the luxury of our extended journey, and we cherished these moments together.
Returning to our hotel, we settled in to watch an intense soccer match between Spain and Germany. The game was thrilling, with Spain scoring a decisive goal in the final minute of overtime, clinching the match 2-1. The excitement of the game provided a fitting end to a memorable day.
Finally, as we prepared for much-needed sleep, we couldn't help but talk about the physical toll of the day's hike. The paved surfaces had taken a harsher toll on our feet compared to the softer trails. Psycho was hobbling a bit more than usual, a stark reminder of the Camino's physical demands. Tomorrow will be a rest day, but we do need to walk 20 minutes to a laundromat.
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