We awoke at 5 a.m., the sky still cloaked in darkness, knowing this would be the longest day of our journey on the Camino Del Norte. It was only about one and half a miles longer than the previous day's milege, but that small difference seemed daunting as we prepared ourselves. We moved slowly, savoring the quiet moments before the day began in earnest.
Our first steps took us along the quayside of Ribadesella, the town still in slumber, save for the gentle lapping of water against the docks. The charming facades of the town soon gave way to the industrial atmosphere of dock warehouses, a less glamorous part of the town. Our spirits were lifted when Apricots found a bar that would be open at 6 a.m., offering the salvation of coffee. Graveyard workers and early shoremen occupied the entrance, their day already in full swing. We entered without hesitation and ordered our coffee, the warm, bitter liquid providing a much-needed boost for the long coffee-less stretch ahead.
Leaving Ribadesella, we walked along a neighborhood road that reminded us of Southern California. After a few minutes, we veered towards the beach, eager to catch the sunrise. The first light of dawn painted the sky with hues of blue, yellow, and orange, a breathtaking spectacle that made the early rise worthwhile. Reluctantly, we turned back into the neighborhood to stay on track.
The scarcity of potential cafe con leche stops kept us moving at a steady pace. We pushed ourselves to cover as many kilometers as possible in the early hours, knowing that rest stops would be few and far between.
Our path soon led us through a hillside grove of young eucalyptus trees. The blue-green leaves was a unique constant to our days now. For a short stint the trail beneath our feet was damp and spongy. Ferns crept in from the sides, their verdant fronds brushing against our legs. The rhythmic sound of waves crashing on the sand below accompanied us, a soothing backdrop to our hike.
The trail meandered through grassy landscapes on hills and cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. The sight of the vast, shimmering ocean filled us with a sense of peace and wonder. Eventually, we reached a one-mile road stretch leading into La Isla. Our feet, exhausted from the continuous trek, welcomed the break. We found a café and settled down for drinks, food, and more drinks, relishing the opportunity to rest and refuel.
Revitalized, we continued our journey to Colunga, a town that surprised us with its blend of bustling city life and historic architecture. We had expected another small coastal village with limited amenities, but Colunga defied our expectations. We stocked up on groceries and took the time to visit two churches with their doors open. In one, we lit candles for those who are no longer with us.
The afternoon brought a challenging climb, the sun beating down on us as we trudged up a hot, shadeless path. The air was muggy, and every step felt like a monumental effort. Our destination was the rectory in Priesca, a house that served as the sleeping quarters for the local priest. Six nights a week, it offers housing to peregrinos, and we gratefully accepted the offer.
Upon arrival, we performed our usual end-of-day routine, tending to our tired bodies and organizing our belongings. Then we sat on the lawn, admiring the breathtaking view over the landscape that was beginning to feel more like mountains. The tranquility of the evening enveloped us, a stark contrast to the day's exertions.
Tomorrow will mark the end of this portion of the Camino Del Norte and the beginning of a new adventure on the Camino Primitivo. The Camino Del Norte has already given us so many beautiful views and unique towns that deserved more time than we could offer them. The Primitivo will do the same, but it will be more remote, and thankfully more trail than road.
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