The morning light struggled to penetrate the thick fog that blanketed Lugo, casting an ethereal glow over the city. We had awoken to our own will, a rare luxury on the demanding Camino Primitivo, and yet, lulled by the cold and mist, we decided to drift back into sleep's embrace. When we finally stirred again, the world outside our hotel window had begun to brighten as the fog burned off for what proved to be a very warm day.
Our first order of the day was to indulge in a leisurely breakfast. We ambled to a nearby bakery, the scent of freshly baked pastries guiding us like an invisible hand. Inside, the warm air was thick with the comforting aromas of buttery croissants, sweet treats, and strong coffee. We treated ourselves to an array of pastries, their flaky crusts and sweet fillings bringing early morning happiness to us. The strong, aromatic coffee provided the perfect counterbalance, sharpening our senses, and complementing the sweet pastries.
Back at the hotel, we faced the mundanity of modern travel: our flight home. In a frustrating twist of fate, the seat selection we had paid for was no longer showing. For over an hour, we wrestled with the airline’s customer service, our frustration mounting with each passing minute. We were convinced we had been duped into paying for seat selection twice, and the possibility of not getting to choose our seats at all loomed over us like a dark cloud. Seeking to dispel our irritation, we decided to explore Lugo on foot, hoping the city’s charms would soothe our spirits.
Lugo, with its rich history and well-preserved Roman walls, welcomed us as we entered the city center through the Camino Primitivo gate. This ancient path, one of the oldest pilgrimage routes in Spain, led us into the heart of the city, where the walls of Lugo stood as a testament to time itself. Built in the 3rd century, these walls encircle the old town, their robust presence a reminder of the city’s Roman past.
Strolling through the city, we let the lively rhythm of daily life envelop us. Shops lined the streets, their windows displaying an array of goods from local delicacies to artisan crafts. The vibrant hum of commerce was a delightful contrast to the serene isolation of the Camino, and we lost ourselves in the cheerful chaos.
Our steps eventually led us to the Cathedral of Santa María. Its Romanesque exterior gave way to a breathtaking interior, that we would return to later in the day.
We decided to climb to the top of the city walls and walk their entire perimeter. This elevated vantage point offered a unique perspective of Lugo, the city unfolding beneath us like a living map. The fog had fully lifted, and now heat urged us forward. The wall took us around Lugo revealing rooftops and narrow streets, the hustle and bustle of daily life continuing below. As we circled the city on these ancient stones, we marveled at the enduring legacy of Roman engineering, questioning how the process of building such a structure would be undertaken.
Hunger soon called us back to street level, and we found a cozy café for lunch. The simple, hearty fare was a delight. Afterward, we indulged in a glass of vermouth at another café, the bitter-sweet drink a perfect accompaniment to our leisurely afternoon.
Refreshed, we returned to our hotel for a siesta. The demands of the Camino Primitivo had taught us the value of rest, and we gratefully succumbed to the quiet and comfort of our room.
When we woke, we returned to tour the Cathedral of Santa María, a cathedral seen from our hotel room and which dominates the cityscape. The breathtaking interior was a sanctuary of soaring arches and intricate carvings bathed in the soft light filtering through stained glass windows. The air inside was cool and hushed, a sacred stillness that invited reflection and awe. No photographs are allowed, so we have only our memories to hold on to.
The self paced guide led us through its storied halls, revealing hidden details and historical anecdotes for this sacred space. The interior was even more stunning than we had anticipated, the altar, a masterpiece of intricate design, stood as the focal point of the cathedral’s splendor. And while the centerpiece was a sight to behold, many other niches, chapels, and corners had their own serene and stunning beauty of craftsmanship.
As the tour concluded, we made our way to a local grocery store to stock up on provisions for the next leg of our journey. Back in our hotel room, we ate our modest dinner, the fresh flavors a fitting end to a day of indulgence.
Before retiring for the night, we took some time to journal, capturing the day’s experiences and our thoughts on the journey so far.
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